“Livsreise,” Norwegian for “life’s journey.”
I learned this term on my journey to see post office murals at Stoughton and Edgerton.
I arrived in Stoughton at 3 p.m. on Friday. I hadn’t had lunch yet, so I was pleased to see the Viking Brewpub was directly across the street from the post office.
But it didn’t open until 4:00. So I set off down Main Street in search of a shop that sells post cards—I always send a couple out as I visit these post offices.
I soon came upon a likely spot, The Nordic Nook.
I had known of Stoughton’s Norwegian-ness long before this visit, and the town certainly backs up its reputation.
The post card selection was scant, but there was a small stack of cards promoting the Livsreise Norwegian Heritage Center.
The Nordic Nook proprietors gave me a couple Livsreise postcards for free and, having told them of my lunch predicament, they suggested it might be a good place to kill some time.
So I ventured to Livsreise.
I’m glad I went. The exhibits were engaging and interactive in telling the stories of Norwegian emigrants. Plus, the center had a display of works by Herbjørn Gausta, a Norwegian-American artist who is best known for his landscapes, portraits, and rural scenes.
Somewhat surprisingly, Stoughton’s post office mural didn’t feature Norwegian immigrants.
Rather, it’s “Air Mail Service” by Edmund D. Lewandowski, installed in 1939. It’s a stark scene with striking lines and contrast.
A postal worker at the counter pointed out to me that none of the people’s eyes could be seen. Was this for effect or because he couldn’t draw eyes, she wondered. I wonder too.
Lewandowski is best known for his abstract and precisionist paintings and mosaic murals. He’s done other post office murals in Wisconsin, Illinois and Minnesota.
From Stoughton, I headed to Madison and Working Draft Brewing Company, where I met up with my Twitter beer buddy, Skip, and his wife, Jennifer. I enjoyed two tasty Czech Pilsners, followed by an altbier at Vintage Brewing.
Saturday morning I found myself with just enough time for some bonus mural questing.
Skip mentioned there were WPA murals at the UW Memorial Union.
First I happened upon two murals I immediately recognized as having a semblance to a series of post-apocalyptic murals in the Denver Airport.
These in the Union were Leo Tanguma’s “The Nourishment of Our Human Dignity” and “The Inheritance of Struggle.”
I could have spent an hour looking at those murals, and others in the Union I’m sure, so I’ll have to come back. But I had to find the WPA works.
It didn’t take long. I wandered into Paul Bunyan’s Cook Shanty and I hit pay dirt. Every wall is Paul Bunyan murals.
The artist is James Waltrous, who also created “Lumberjack Fight on the Flambeau River” at the Park Falls Post Office.
Lately, I’ve been wondering about the origins of Paul Bunyan tales and why Wisconsin—and other places—are so infatuated with the lumberjack legend. A column for another day perhaps?
After a delightful brunch with friends Nick and Leiah, and daughter Clara, at Everyday Kitchen on Saturday morning, I drove to Edgerton.
I took a meandering scenic route, which included passing by Graves Cemetery and driving Wisconsin Rustic Road 68.
Edgerton’s heritage was immediately apparent in the tobacco warehouses still marked with old-times mail pouch tobacco advertisements. Tobacco was once a major crop in the area, and some is still grown there today.
The post office mural also paid homage to the tobacco growing days, with “Tobacco Harvest” by Vladimir Rousseff, installed in 1941. There is a lot to look at in this mural—nine people, a bucolic backdrop and a harvest time spread at the dinner table.
According to the book “Wisconsin Post Office Murals,” Rousseff, who also has Kaukauna’s PO mural to his credit, wrote, “The theme ‘Tobacco Harvest’ appealed to me as being most romantic and preserving the spirit of the pioneers of the settlement… A time of peace and rest at the end of the day when the entire family gathered in the open to partake of a meal in the enjoyment of the lovely country and the rich harvest.”
According to the Wisconsin Historical Society, “Tobacco boomed during the Civil War when the secession of the south created a strong market for the crop. By the 1880s, tobacco was grown across southern Dane county and in Rock and Jefferson counties. Tobacco prices fell during the Depression but the Agricultural Adjustment Act helped to solidify the market by restricting the number of acres in production. Although tobacco cultivation was not native to Norwegians, they soon became strongly associated with it due to the large number of immigrants who worked on tobacco farms.”
I bought a card at the Feels Like Home shop and went for a scoop of Chocolate Shoppe ice cream at Campbell Boys 53534 general store before leaving town.
On the way back to Madison I stopped at the Bad Fish Creek Wildlife Area.
I took a stroll on the straight mowed paths. The landscape was brown and the wind was cold. The only signs of life were cardinals flitting in the trees frequently making their chippy calls.
I felt refreshed after my stroll, and ready for a night out on the town in Madison.
Another great day on life’s journey.
URC—MuralQuest #3 / 033022
Urban Rural Column 